Monumental Guest Houses in the Cape Winelands

When I see a grand old building with a small bronze plaque by the door announcing its National Monument status, I get the urge to peek inside and imbibe some of its historic past. The Cape Winelands of South Africa is positively bulging with historic houses built by its Dutch, French and English settlers, so it was not difficult to plan a tour staying solely in National Monument guest houses.

I entered a world of perfectly restored Cape Dutch, Victorian and Georgian, houses, some of which had progressed from one architectural style to another over the years, making them quite unique to the Cape.

Centre of Wine Growing Area

When Simon van der Stel journeyed to a beautiful wooded mountainous area in 1679, (now less than 1 hour's drive from Cape Town), he liked it so much he named it after himself. Stellenbosch is now the centre of the Cape wine growing area and it is here that I started my quest for great wine and food in historic settings.

Right in the middle of this university town, a stone's throw from the impressive neo-gothic Moeder Kerk (Mother Church first built in 1687), is an unpronounceable guest house by the name of d'Ouwe Werf. Small and inconspicuous with a symmetrical Georgian exterior, its reveals a deep warm interior, private sunny courtyard and palm-sheltered swimming pool.

D'ouwe Werf (pronounced d'over verf) became an Inn in 1802, and it claims to be the oldest existing guest house in South Africa. On the original site stood a church, and like many Stellenbosch buildings that huddle together in tight thatched terraces, it burned down three times.

Each fire gave it a change of face, culminating in its present orderly demeanour. Its restaurant was buzzing and the menu unexpectedly innovative with dishes such as fried feta with chilli fig chutney, and Karoo rack of lamb roast in cashew nut and rosemary crust with green pea and mint pesto. The wine list was no less interesting.

Over 250 Wine Estates

There are over 70 wine estates around Stellenbosch and over 250 in the winelands as a whole. The number of tasting rooms to choose from makes the mind and palate boggle. Especially as each estate offers a choice of several reds and whites, and usually a desert wine or port. 'Overripe plums and black cherries.'